Originally from Sweden, Martin Kroon’s cookery career began when he undertook compulsory military service, choosing to spend it at the Royal Swedish Navy School of Gastronomy. He has never looked back. Martin moved to London in 2001 to work at Michelin-starred restaurant L’Oranger, before jetting off to the Caribbean to head up a kitchen, only to later return to the capital to run his own café, Martabelle-K, in Hackney.

Ethics first:

Meeting Martin in the wooden interior of the Chop House, I am greeted with a firm handshake. As our conversation continues I start to realise just how passionate he is about where his food comes from. He speaks to farmers and suppliers every day, he explains, and by dealing directly with them he’s cutting out the middle-man and gaining a greater understanding of their work. He’d rather buy a whole animal and use it all, teaching his chefs a variety of skills along the way, than buy in ready-prepared cuts.

Before becoming a chef Martin was a musician, and from his considered style of talking about food it isn’t hard to believe. His passion for food, however, has to be something that you either have or don’t have – whether he’s talking about the fallen fruit his middle white pork feeds on, or the wild Scottish game he sources, Martin’s love for his job shines through.

A few words with Martin:

“The military School of Gastronomy is considered very good in Sweden… we had an unlimited budget – they wanted the sailors to have the best food.”

“My technique of cooking is basically French, because of the places I’ve worked and the training I’ve had… but my Swedish heritage brings a lighter style.”

“It’s our place here and customers should feel that they are coming into our house… in a restaurant like this the cooking is relatively simple and the customer has to feel confident in the product – who it’s from and what it is.”

“My cooking is very ethical… I use local and seasonal produce where possible, buying meat direct from farmers and fish off day boats rather than trawlers.”

“I’m not a shouter – I don’t believe in creating a negative over-worked kitchen atmosphere… I want the people who work here to be healthy, fresh, passionate about the food and ready to deal with problems in a positive way.”

“I want to make the kitchen more accessible, so chefs aren’t afraid to come out, meet customers and talk about the food… it’s very important to me to make it clear to customers why they should eat at Butlers Wharf Chop House.”

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